Four Seasons in Four Months – Part 13

Challenges are what make life interesting and overcoming them is what makes life meaningful.
– Joshua J. Marine
Rötviken(Sweden) – Teveltunet Fjellstue
28 August 2017 – 07 September 2017
11 Days
253 km
TOTAL: 2193 km
28 August 2017 (Monday) — by the Lill-Baksjön Lake, Sweden
Distance: 22.3 km

It was nice and good to wake up in the cabin. We ate a light breakfast, packed up, cleaned up, and we waited for the opening of a nearby store. At that moment we also found out that we were not alone at the campsite, because two men working in the nearby forests were staying at the campsite during the season. We talked for a while and then, at 10 o’clock we went to the shop. Apparently they had some supplies, but not enough so that we could fully stock up, and that was important for us before a long section. So we only bought food for two days and instead of going along the 340 road, we turned towards Akersjön, where according to our GPS, there should be a shop as well.

After another, bigger breakfast, we set off slowly, stopping by Hotagen Lake once more, to try out newly purchased fishing bites. We managed to catch something, but we put it back to the water. It was getting warmer. In the evening we came to a small lake Lill-Baksjön, where after examining the area we decided to stay for the night.

After dinner, I sat in the tent, writing notes, and Marcin was fishing. Suddenly, I heard some sounds, like a crack of branches being broken under feet. I thought maybe it was Marcin, but it did not sound like him. I looked out and around, and I spotted the reindeer between the trees! They must have got scared when I looked out, because they rushed down, ran just next to Marcin, making him jump at the same time, so he nearly had a heart attack! They got into the water and in no time they were already on the other side of the lake. And we still were standing and couldn’t get over this unusual incident.

Accommodation by the Lill-Baksjön lake, Sweden
29 August 2017 (Tuesday) — by the shop in Akersjön, Sweden
Distance: 18.0 km

Sometimes the days were unfavourable for us. I don’t think we have ever been so lost before, completely not knowing what to do. In the morning it was raining a little, so we put our rain coats on right away. We set off eagerly, because we were already thinking about the shop in Akersjön and what we will buy there. Conversations were about the food and the walk was going well.

In Bakvattnet, we met an elderly lady, who talked to us and informed that the elk hunting season was about to begin, and we should be more careful walking the trails. In the rain we arrived at Akersjön, and there, a dead silence everywhere. We came to the store, and it was closed up tight. And it was Tuesday, not Sunday! We did not know what to do. We sat down under the shop roof, because it started to rain heavily. I quickly spotted that there was free WiFi, so we started looking for a different point of supply. There was a note on the store board with the opening hours in the summer. It looked like the shop will be open the following day, but we did not know if the summer was still on, or it was already gone. We decided to go to the hotel we passed on our way and get some information from there. The hotel turned out to be closed after the season. So we sat under the roof, completely not knowing what to do. If we wanted to go into the mountains, we needed some food. I quickly ran to the shop again and took the phone number of the shop owner, unfortunately there was no answer. So I sent a message asking for information, and we could only wait.

We walked a bit further on, and following some minor road we reached the lake, where to our surprise, there was a shelter. There we stayed. We made dinner, then Marcin went fishing, and In the meantime I managed to contact Miss Camilla, the shop owner. She was away, so she could not come today, but she could open the shop on the next day a little earlier than usual. It was good that at least we knew, what was going on, and there was a possibility of getting supplies. We got quite cold while sitting out in such weather. We also drank some coffee and after discussion we agreed that the best option would be to wait until tomorrow and buy what’s possible. Only we were worried whether would get the fuel for the stove, as we were already running out. So then, we started looking for a camping spot, there was nothing by the lake, so we headed towards the store, but there weren’t any good spots either. In the end I contacted Miss Camilla and asked if we could set up the tent at the rear of the shop building, as there was such a nice spot there. “Of course, you can! — So we stay!” We felt better in the evening, as finally, we had some plan of action.

Unusual accommodation, at the back of a shop building in Akersjön, Sweden
30 August 2017 (Wednesday) — by the 340 road, about 3 from Lillholmsjö, Sweden
Distance: 28.0 km

We woke up to a cold and misty morning. The Sun could not break through. We got up early, to pack up before Ms Camilla will arrive to open the store. In the end, however, the Sun came out, so we quickly took out and set up our tent to dry it down, while we will be shopping. Ms Camilla came earlier, just as she promised. We talked a bit, and she made us aware, that there was an open toilet in the building. And we were going somewhere into the bushes! We bought our supplies, we also managed to buy fuel, we took the last bottle. Additionally, we took the last jar of peanut butter, which the lady had put aside to use for baking. Oh well, today customers will have to settle for carrot cake only:) Also, we had some coffee and nice cake, made by the lady owner. We chatter for a moment, thanked her and moved on.

There was no option of doing some fishing in this lake, because it was shallow from this side, so we did not stop for longer. Later, we left the lakes, and we walked along the roads. At Lillholmsjö we came by a shop, but not a grocery store, but a mechanical and hardware one. Most importantly thou, they had lot of fishing bites. Of course, Marcin bought some of them. Fortunately we arrived just before the shop closing:) A bonus for today: we passed 2000 kilometres mark on our trip counter!

31 August 2017 (Thursday) — by the Landösjön Lake, Sweden
Distance: 25.1 km

In the morning, the water was dripping on our heads! And the reason was not the rain, but the frost. The water vapour from the condensation accumulated under the flysheet and it stayed there as it was freezing. In the morning, as soon as the Sun started to warm up and melt the frost, it all began to drip on our heads. We were wiping, rubbing off and in the meantime we were eating breakfast, unfortunately without anything to drink, as we had no access to water.

This frost was the first one and it was signalling the arrival of autumn. The morning was crisp and cold. We walked and stop by the nearest river, and there we drank some tea, and then moved towards the next lake. Our aim was a forest road that went along the southern side of the lake. It got quite warm, but most importantly there was no wind, and we could try casting a fishing rod few times. One single fish got caught, when we announced: “OK, that’s the last cast”. We reached the half-length of the lake, where the road was to go into the forest. There was a small, short path going straight to the lake. We followed it, hoping to find a place for a tent. What a surprise that was, when we saw a shelter right by the lake! Happy days!

While I was setting up camp, Marcin was fishing. I did not even manage to inflate the mattresses, when I had to run with the camera, because the pike was on the hook! “Oh, it will be a feast supper”:) But, so that would be not too good, the clouds gathered and it started to rain so heavily, that we had problems lighting a fire. In the end, we managed to set up a small roof over the fire, and we could start preparing our fishes. To finish our day nicely, the clouds scattered and the rainbow appeared.

01 September 2017 (Friday) — by the Rännögssjön Lake, Sweden
Distance: 25.4 km

After unsuccessful morning fishing we moved on. We left the lake for a few kilometres, to return to it for another fishing break, when we managed to catch one small fish. We had a couple of kilometres of a cross-country walk ahead. Although, it was walk through the forest, over the roots, it went quite well. In the meantime, we also had a lunch break, and Marcin caught another fish at the same time. We stopped by the lake few more times, but were not successful. The lake was getting shallower from this side. So we said goodbye to it, and we headed towards the next one.

As a matter of fact the road went far away from the lake, but as soon as we spotted the forest road, we turned into it and soon we arrived at the beach. There we decided to stay. The wood for the fire was already nicely chopped and prepared, the beavers did a good job:) First, we cooked the fish, and then we started to prepare the sausages, that were waiting in our backpack for such an occasion and such a perfect place.

In the evenings it gets dark quickly.

02 September 2017 (Saturday) — by the small lake, near the Bergsjön Lake, Sweden
Distance: 25.4 km

We woke up to a beautiful and foggy morning, with the Sun breaking trough the haze over the lake. We packed up early. The morning was crisp and cool, but the Sun was warming up with every hour. We followed a road, that was quite busy. By the river we stopped for a coffee break. Also, we used the Sun to warm ourselves up, dry our shoes and charge the phone.

Although there were many lakes in the area, it was not so easy to access them. Even if we managed to get through, they turned out to be shallow with overgrown shores. It meant no fishing for some time.


At dinner time we came to the river, and there was a picnic table. It is true, that we had to share it with an army of ants, but was like finding a needle in a haystack. We managed to use the break time for drying the tent, sleeping bags and whatever possible, before more dark clouds gathered. Marcin tried to fish, as we could see the fishes, but unfortunately none of them wanted to be caught.

After about 4 more kilometres we came to a small lake. Already from the road we could see the fishes splashing in it, so we stopped for a moment, as Marcin wanted to cast the fishing rod several times. He did not have to wait a long time and soon pan-size trout was already on the shore. We moved to a headland, from where there was better access to the water, and the water and the place was very nice. The fishes were jumping out of the water like crazy. In the meantime I took a walk around, doing an inspection of the area and also I read for some time. In the end, it got so late, that we agreed that there was no point to go further, since the fishes were there. We prepared a small dinner, then I was setting up our camp, and Marcin continued to fish, and in total it was his best catch, he took 8 fishes out of the water, but he had more on the hook.

Successful fishing :)
03 September 2017 (Sunday) — by the Juvuln Lake, about 17 km from Kallsedet, Sweden
Distance: 18.1 km

The Sun did not reach our tent, but only because we were hidden in the woods. And we woke up to a morning coldness, so we packed up at a fast pace, as our hands were freezing.

A crispy morning made the walk more pleasant. At break time we came to the Juvuln Lake, where Marcin half-heartedly cast his fishing rod, and he caught a large grayling. However, he put it back into the water, as we already had whole set of fishes. Searching for a good place for dinner, we walked bit further along the lake, we made several attempts to reach the lake, but all the time we came to a steep cliff. Finally, the road came quite close to the lake. We went down to the shingle beach just off the road. The Sun was warming up, it was middle of the day. We used that time as best as we could. First we made some tea, in the meantime we took out our sleeping bags for drying, and we prepared a campfire and the fishes. Then, not to waste such an opportunity, we took a bath in the cold waters, and we dried ourselves in the warmth of the Sun. While we were sorting ourselves out, the fishes were being cooked in the fire. The dinner was delicious and big, we still had some left for later:)

Marcin went for a walk around the headland, exploring and assessing the possibility of fishing and camping. He came back and said in short: “we stay, we just have to make the best use of this beautiful day and nice place”. So we stayed, enjoying the awesome weather and that wonderful place. Unfortunately Marcin did not have luck with fishing, but I had some luck with blueberries. I walked and walked around, and collected the whole cup in no time. So we also had some dessert:)

The night was incredibly clear, with the full moon illuminating the lake. If not for the coldness, I could stand there and stare at this view for hours.

04 September 2017 (Monday) — by the Kallsjön Lake, about 6 km from Kallsedet, Sweden
Distance: 30.0 km

It’s time for elks hunting! For us, it meant that we had to be more careful in the forest or when walking the trails. We were woken up by the barking dog, probably someone was already on the hunt. We moved on and for longer time we left the lake. When we got to it again, the wind got so strong, that there were big waves forming on the lake. Fishing was not possible. So we made a dinner from the food package, and we moved on.

Shelter under the spruce tree

Thanks to information we got from Ms Camilla in Akersjön, we knew that there is small shop by the camping in Kallsedet. We went there to buy the supplies. Also, we used this opportunity, and we treated ourselves with delicious waffles with whipped cream. Just outside the city we met an older couple of travellers who were walking from the south to the north, it was nice to talk for a moment.

Although we got close to the lake several times, the fishing was not possible because of the waves and the wind, and the banks were quite steep. For the night we found a small meadow near the bay, at the end of the forest path.

The Kallsjön lake, Sweden
05 September 2017 (Tuesday) — by the Kallsjön Lake, about 15 km from Huså, Sweden
Distance: 14.0 km

At night, it rained a little, and the wind was howling over the lake and in the trees. We woke up to a rainy and windy morning, however, for the first time in a long time the tent from the inside was quite dry. We ate breakfast, but none of us were willing to get out. The weather was good neither for walking nor for fishing. We decided to wait few hours and see if something will change. It stopped raining for a moment, but as soon as we thought about going out, it immediately started raining heavily again. As it was already time for coffee break, we organized some coffee, which we prepared in “sitting in the tent” position. Good coffee improved our moods, gave us some motivation, so we decided to pack up and move on. As if for confirmation, it stopped raining, and it got brighter. And it stayed so for the rest of the day.

Marcin tried fishing again, but when at the first cast he lost his fishing bite, he stopped quickly. Unfortunately the wind and the waves did not help. The road sometimes went close to the lake, sometimes away from the lake, and we were following it peacefully. Suddenly, Marcin spotted the blueberries zone — huge, nice and ripe berries. We quickly took off our backpacks, so we could comfortably indulge ourselves with natural goodies. So far, we have not seen such a density of so good blueberries. We could not stop eating, as there was another shrub, and another one next to it… We only stopped when our tummies filled up to the limits, and our hands and tongues turned purple.

06 September 2017 (Wednesday) — somewhere near the path to Åreskutan, about 4 km from Huså, Sweden
Distance: 22.7 km

Repetition of the previous day. We woke up in the rain, the sky was covered in clouds and it was raining steadily. We were not willing to leave the tent in such weather. So we decided to wait, hoping that it will clear up. Trying to gain some motivation we lay down almost till eleven o’clock. Then we made a coffee, which again gave us the willingness and courage. We gathered quickly in the rain and we moved on.

Today, for a change, we came across a raspberry zone. Not being bothered about the rain, we went into the bushes, and we ate as much as we could. For dinner, we stopped at a place, where the fishing was possible, but unfortunately it ended without results. In the evening we reached the town of Huså, and we stopped there for a while at the boat pier. It wasn’t raining that much. Marcin cast his fishing rod few times, but half-heartedly and without results. We also finished our discussion from the morning about our further route. We decided that instead of going further along the lake, to leave it and through the mountains get to Duved. In Huså, we came across an information board with marked trails and shelters. We chose the optimal one for us, got on the right track, and although it was already quite late, we decided to go to one of the open shelter. We had to climb a little up. It was already getting dark when we were setting up a tent, and we ate dinner in the light of the headlamps.

07 September 2017 (Thursday) — by the E1 path, close to Teveltunet Fjellstue
Distance: 24.0 km+50 km by train

From all possible configurations, yesterday we set up a tent in a way, that the shelter was exactly on the east, and in the morning, even though the sun was shining, we were in the shade, and we did not have a chance to warm up. And there were only 9 degrees inside the tent.

We packed up and went further along the trail through the mountains. Whether due to the fact that the morning was very nice and crisp, or because we have not walked in the mountains for a long time, the walk went well and was pleasant. We climbed a little and then we began to descend. We met few older hikers who were on their walk for the day. We talked for a while and it got very nice. When we came to the river we stopped for late coffee break. Then to remind ourselves what it’s like to walk through the swamps, through the mud and water we came to the E14 road. Later, following a minor road we got to Duved. It is a ski resort with a lot of ski slopes and hotels. There were only few tourists, as it was still long time till season opening.

We came to a campsite, which was supposed to be open, but as it was out of the season, the reception was closed, and there were only forms to fill out when someone wanted to stay. However, we decided not to stay there, as there was no Internet, and we couldn’t find washing machine anywhere. Marcin convinced me, that we should get to Teveltunet, where another parcel should be waiting for us. So we went to the supermarket, we had a small meal, in the meantime connecting to the Internet and looking for an option of getting back to Norway. We bought supplies for the next stage, bought a train ticket, and we moved to the train station. When we arrived at Storlien, our stop, it was already 18:30. We bought a bottle of fuel, and we went down the bike path towards Teveltunet, hoping that we will be able to set up a tent there and recharge our batteries. Soon we were back in Norway. Unfortunately, it turned out that they do not take tents, they only have cabins for rent, and these were for us much too expensive. The gentleman was so nice, however, and pointed us where a good place for a tent was. We collected our package and we walked towards the lake. And so, we missed the chance of recharging, doing the laundry, bathing and resting before the next stage. Well at least we had a nice spot and it did not rain:)